BASIC CUSTOMIZING
Information we provide you is just the basic. Every customizer is different on their methods. There is always a beginning where everyone starts and in time, they find new ways that are easier or whatever fits their needs. These basic “How 2’s” is just a start of a beginning for you for this great hobby where you show and share your talent. This beginning never has an ending as it challenges you to be creative.
ALWAYS REMEMBER - SAFETY FIRST!
Important supplies you must have on hand which can be purchased from your local Wal-mart or Home Depot:
ü Safety Glasses (Prevents small particles and stripper getting in your eye)
ü Chemical Gloves (do NOT use latex, nylon, plastic, nitrile, or fabric gloves) whenever using paint stripper
ü Paint Mask
ü Vise
ü Wire Brush
ü Dremel or Drill
ü 3/32” & 1/8” Drill Bit

Supplies for Custom Casting
ü Spray Can Primer
ü Spray Can Color Scheme of Casting
ü Spray Can Clear Coat
ü Paint Stripper (Klean-Strip KS-3 Premium Stripper)
ü Mineral Spirit
ü Aluminum Pan
ü Q-tips
ü JB Weld
ü Rivet Gun and 3/32” Rivet (Optional)
ü Roll of Paper Towels
Step 1 – Selecting a casting
Depending on what type of customizing you are going to do, really boils down to what you want to select. We have selected the 77 Dodge Custom Van and going to do a color change and wheel swap. You can notice that there is a lot of flat surface you could work with, and not that many lines and curves to clean.

Step 2 – Removing the Base

Place a towel (will prevent any new deep scratches on the body) between the jaws of the vise. Place the casting upside down on top of the towel about half way down into the jaws of the vise. Tighten the vice tight enough to hold the casting in place as you will apply a downward pressure into the existing rivets.
Using a 3/32" drill bit, drill out the center of the rivet. Make sure you do not apply too much pressure that will cause you to go through the top of your car.

Once your first hole is center and deep enough, switch bits to a 1/8" size and finish off the top head of the rivet. Align the tip of the bit to the existing center of the 3/32” hole and drill down, until you hear a “click.” That sound indicates that separation has been made between the existing post and the base.
** Please do not attempt drilling casting by holding it with your bare hand or while wearing gloves. I have experienced the drill slipping from the casting and drilled my index finger as well as the leather glove I was wearing.
Step 3 - Stripping the Casting and Cleaning
Always use in a well-ventilated area wearing chemical gloves, eye protection, and a chemical apron. You may even consider using a mask to keep from inhaling the fumes from the paint stripper.

Place the casting on a aluminum pan. Brush evenly on the casting of the car using a Q-tip. Make sure you apply it on all areas where the existing paint must be removed. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes as the existing paint starts to bubble and remove itself from the casting.
Once you feel that all the paint has been removed, wipe off all the excess with a paper towel. Using a wire brush, brush between the lines and deep curves of the casting.

Using a Q-tip, dip it into the Mineral Spirit and apply it on the outside and inside of the body casting. This will clean up the existing residue and oil that the naked eye cannot see. Make sure you get in the areas between the rivets where the old paint and stripper likes to hide. With a clean paper towel wipe the casting dry of the Mineral Spirit.
Step 4 – Applying Primer, Paint and Clear
With a large variety of selection of Spray Can Primer and Colors, my advice is to stick with the same brand.

Spray the casting with even strokes. Never attempt to stop moving your hand in the middle of your casting. This will cause a puddle where the primer is penetrating on the casting. After time of the primer has dried as indicated on the can, it’s time to apply the paint.

Repeat the same steps with the paint as explained with the primer. Remember, nice even strokes. I used a Flat White

After the paint on the car has dried as instructed on the can, you will repeat the step of applying the clear coat. It will take a few light coats of clear to get the shine you are satisfied with your custom. Once the clear is dry, buff with a non abrasive rag for a super shine.
Step 5 – Wheel Swap
When making the wheel swap, make sure that the wheel size you are going to use is not too small or large from the original wheels
o Small wheel size - will cause the car to drag the base on the surface
o Larger wheel size- will cause the body of the casting to rub on the wheels preventing the tires to roll freely

Taking a small screwdriver, bend the 3 prongs holding the existing wheel axle in place and bend them back. Do not worry if you break them or not.

Remove the old axle and insert the new axle with choice of wheels you selected. Push down the existing 3 prongs if possible then apply JB Weld in the center of the axle using a toothpick. Do not use crazy glue, as the clear glue will run down edge of the axle drying the existing wheel to the axle, causing the wheels not to spin.
Step 6 – Attaching the Base

Option A
If the first hole you drilled into the rivets went right you can reattach using a 3/32" rivet.
Option B
Using a toothpick, mix the amount of JB Weld needed. Apply the mixed JB Weld into the existing hole of the base from the old rivet. Make sure you apply enough that it is touching the post of the casting. If not, when it dries, the bottom base will come off.

Conclusion
Be sure to have fun! Customizing diecast cars is an art, so have fun with it and remember no one made a perfect custom their first time out of the gate, good luck!!
Oh and one important thing you will need is PATIENCE!
I have found that the worse critic of your own custom is yourself. Enjoy and be safe!
Last updated by Admin Agentp Apr. 8, 2009.
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